Travel Diaries - Visiting Lisbon

With Portugal being on the Green List for a bit, Lisbon was set to be the place to visit this summer. Unfortunately, COVID treated every brit eager to get some sun with a cold shower and Portugal got back onto the Amber List. Additionally, the Portuguese Government implemented a 14 days quarantine for travellers from the UK following the raise of Delta-variant cases. Hopefully, travelling will be back on the table for vaccinated people very soon and you too will be able to enjoy the Portuguese capital for some well-deserved sangria.

Travelling in those COVID times is stressful due to the situation’s uncertainty and I was glad I got fully vaccinated before summer. To enter Portugal one must present a negative PCR or Antigen test before boarding and fill in a passenger locator form. Rules are constantly changing and it's best to check before booking anything. For instance, during the weekends inside dining is reserved for people with a negative test or a vaccination certificate and, most commerces close at 3:30 PM. Restaurants at 10:30 PM to avoid the youth from partying and social distancing must be respected everywhere with no more than 4 people per table. Since it was a family holiday, we didn’t mind the restrictions but it’s good to keep them in mind if you’re planning a hot girl summer.

Now onto the juicy bit. Despite being half Portuguese, I’ve never seen much of my mother’s land and I never felt very connected to my Portuguese heritage. Visiting Lisbon was something we’d meant to do for the longest time but was always postponed. We stayed in a wonderful Airbnb, only a couple blocks away from the Praça do Comércio for a total of six days. Since we were eager to visit as much a possible while remaining safe pandemic wise, we opted for a rental car, which made our lives ten times easier.

Day One

The first day was super sunny and warm so we strolled around our Airbnb’s area to familiarise ourselves with the neighbourhood. I was first headed to the Praça do Comércio (or Terreiro do Paço to locals) which is a large harbour-facing square and is known as Western Europe’s largest royal square. Back in the 16th Century, King Manuel I, built a royal residence - the Ribeira Palace - which was destroyed in 1755 by a devastating earthquake followed by a tsunami. King José I’s Prime Minister, the Marquis of Pombal, then coordinated a massive rebuilding effort led by Portuguese architect Eugénio dos Santos to create the square as we know it today.

Completed in 1873, the square’s triumphal arch was meant to welcome those arriving in the city by boat and is topped by sculptures representing Glory holding wreaths over Genius and Bravery. Today, its arcaded buildings house a few government offices but have mostly been turned into restaurants amongst which you can find the city’s oldest café: Martinho da Arcada. In the middle of the place, you’ll find a majestic statue of King José I on his horse, symbolically crushing snakes on his path (same bestie!). Ironically, on 1 February 1908, the royal square was the scene of the assassination of Carlos I, the penultimate King of Portugal. The assassins were shot on the spot by police and later recognised as members of the Republican Party – which two years later overthrew the Portuguese monarchy.

After soaking in all this History, we wandered some more by the seafront and decided it was time for a traditional snack at the Manteigaria, arguably the best Pastéis de Natas in Lisbon. Originally known as pastéis de Leite, the first real pastéis de Nata appeared during the seventeenth century and it was a chef of the King Philip II of Spain that came out with the new recipe while he was in Lisbon for nine months. This long-established dessert is an egg custard tart whose dough is made of puff pastry. Personally, I was never a fan of this pastry until I had one in Lisbon. I hate it when the cream is jellified and the crust has turned soft. But I had to give it a second chance and didn’t regret it. Straight out of the oven, the creaminess of the custard, the crispiness of the tart make and the tad of cinnamon on top, make my mouth water simply by the thought of it.

To finish off the day we walked some more, heading to Bairro Alto, the upper part of Lisbon where we had another traditional meal for dinner. Bifanas are Portuguese sandwiches made out of a light but crusty bread roll filled with sautéed strips of pork that have been seasoned with garlic, spices, and white wine. The pork is juicy, and sometimes slightly greasy, making it a popular late-night snack for those that need something to soak up the beer they’ve been drinking. Simple but effective.

Day Two

On our second day, I took things slow and started my day treating myself to a massage at the Eco-Massage Salon down our street. Very much inspired by Micheal Scott’s iconic safety training, I decided not to let the stress of my modern office life give me anxiety and spent an hour fully relax. I loved that the salon took walk-in appointments and had a variety of therapies and treatments available. The staff was lovely and very comprehensive of my broken Portuguese which I was grateful for. I immediately felt comfortable in their aesthetically pleasing space (despite my masseuse having to tell me to ‘just relax’ about 5 times) and left the place almost floating.

For lunch, I went to the trendy and cosmopolitan RIB Beef and Wine Lisboa for some delicious entrecôte. The place was elegant and everything from starter to dessert was excellent. The rest of the day was quiet too and by the evening we all got ready for drinks and dinner in the Bairro Alto. We first walked up to the oldest elevator in Lisbon, the Santa Justa Elevador. The hills of Lisbon have always presented a problem for travel between the lower and higher streets. To facilitate the movement between the two, the civil and military engineer Roberto Arménio presented a project to the Lisbon municipal council in 1874.

After going up against some never-ending stairs, we stopped for drinks with a view of Lisbon’s Castle. On our way back down we stopped behind the Archeology Museum, which is right next to the top of Santa Justa Elevador to catch the sunset with a breathtaking view of Lisbon. We finally made our way to dinner, where we had a plater of grilled fish to share and fresh sangria.

Day Three

Our third day was most likely the busiest as we visited Belém, located in western Lisbon and famous as a museum district, as the home of many of the most notable monuments of Lisbon such as the Belém Tower, the Jerónimos Monastery, the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, and Belém Palace (official residence of the President of Portugal). Because of our busy schedule, we only entered the simply magnificent Monastery. Designed by the Portuguese architect Diogo de Boitaca to commemorate the return of navigator Vasco da Gama from India, the construction of this religious building began in January 1501 and wasn’t completed until the seventeenth century. Inside lies the tomb of Vasco da Gama alongside some of Portugal’s most famous and colourful historical figures.

We then took the road to Cascais, the main holiday destination of the Lisbon coastline. Historically known as the summer retreat of the Portuguese nobility, this traditional fish town offers a wide panel of entertainment with a perfect blend of modernity and culture. Naturally, we visited the big Mercado da Vila and enjoyed some fresh sushi at Sushi Del Mar before spending the afternoon at the wild and sandy Praia da Adraga. This beach is protected by cliffs and offers a spectacular panoramic. As the weather slightly changed, the air got cooler and the waves wilder making it preferable not to dip in but we had a good time nonetheless. The surprising greenery, typical of the area really made the adventure (and scratch on our rental car) worth it.

We finished the day with a trip through nostalgia valley and visited my mother’s home town. It was touching to walk through the streets I used to visit nearly every year until my grandparent consecutively passed away. Funnily, I only remembered the paved streets since, as a child my only concern was to focus on putting one foot in front of the other without falling. We were surprised how many things had changed and how many hadn’t. It was a really special moment to share with my family and despite staying for a short while we were glad we came.

Day Four

I spent the fourth day in the company of my flatmate, Rafaela, who is from Lisbon. Needless to say that my mom was incredibly excited to meet my school friend. As we were discussing this interesting crossover between our UK and Portugal seasons, we drove in direction to Sintra a town in the Greater Lisbon. Known for its scenic beauty, Sintra’s historic centre is famous for its 19th-century Romanticist architecture, historic estates, castles and gardens. This fairytale town is surrounded by vegetation and had bewitched visitors and poets throughout history. English poet Robert Southey described Sintra as “the most blessed spot on the whole inhabitable globe” and I must agree with him.

After a late lunch at the Metamorphosis restaurant, we visited the Pena Palace. Built in 1840 over an old monastery, which was incorporated into the new building (including a 16th-century chapel with a marble and alabaster altarpiece, and a Manueline cloister with decorative tiles from 1520), this fantasy palace is made of wonders. Located on the top of a mountain, the view is stunning and the garden looks like an enchanted forest. The bright and colourful decor takes inspiration from overseas cultural heritage with the traditional Portuguese tiles, the azulejos. If you’re visiting Lisbon, I would highly recommend making a detour and stopping in Sintra. It won’t disappoint.

Day Five

In all honesty, on the fifth day, we mainly visited Lisbon’s high-street and its shops. Busy buying souvenirs and browsing through the sales we enjoyed a quiet day in the city centre.

We had the most amazing brunch at I Love Nicolau which is famous for its everyday healthy food and relaxed environment. Hands down one of the best brunch I’ve ever had, the dishes were massive and very reasonably priced. In the afternoon we stopped for coffee and a savoury snack; pastel de bacalhau with cheese. The shop was presented as a tiny museum for this traditional amuse-bouche and the experience was fun despite me not liking the cod based finger food. In my opinion, it was too salty but still worth the try.

We met with my friend again in the evening and went to LX Factory, Lisbon’s artsy neighbourhood. Similar to Camden Town or our beloved Brighton North Laines, LX Factory is quirky and filled with good restaurants, bars and cafés. This space is home to over 200 businesses ranging from design houses, showrooms, shops, offices and commercial spaces. The unique cultural and artistic standing is attractive to curious spirits and tourists. I had a lot of walking around the streets filled with little eye-catching details. We celebrated our successful trip at the Mex Factory sipping margaritas. Overall the restaurant was alright, the food was nice but a little overpriced in my opinion.

Day Six

On our last day, we stopped by the Costa da Caparica to enjoy the sea one last time before flying back to a rainy Switzerland. As our trip was coming to an end, we packed our memories and belongings, already regretting the places we hadn’t had the time to see. Lisbon is colourful, lively and affordable (for tourists). Filled with culture and history, there’s always a place, monument or museum to visit. I loved the diversity of its scenery as everyone can find something to enjoy there. I look forward to going back and seeing more of this magnificent capital.